Step #1
The first step in installing the Super Structure in the post setting. While many installers prefer to drive their posts, the posts may also be handset using wedges attached to the bottom of the posts and then concreted for at least the bottom 3 feet. All posts must be set at least 4 feet deep in solid undisturbed ground. (Local codes may require deeper settings).
Be sure to set the posts square, plumb and on the same plane.
Post Spacing
Building Size Inside Post Spacing Post Spacing
(Width) (Length)
32'' 30' 10' On Center
42'' 40' 10' On Center
52' 50' 8' On Center
62' 60' 8' On Center
Step #2
After the posts have been set and you have marked the tops on the posts with a transit or level, it is time to cut the post tops to the proper angle to receive the trusses. Use the following chart.
Building Size Angle
32' 74 degrees
42' 70 degrees
52' 76 degrees
62' 86 degrees
The post cutting method may vary, shown is a bar jig for a chain saw
Now it is time to attach the 2" x 12" plate. Be sure to align the edge of the 2" x 12" with the face of the post using a straight edge as shown.
Included in your kit are four corner blocks. These are already rounded on the corners to protect the tarp.
To drill the holes for the trusses, measure down 5" from the top inside edge of the 2" x 12" and then drill a +" hole through the post. Be sure to center the hole and hold the drill level.
Completed hole ready to accept truss.
The ratchet holes can also be drilled at this time. On the outside of the posts measure down 22" from the underside of the 2" x 12" and drill these with the +" auger.
While the kneewall is being completed the trusses can be assembled nearby. Be sure to assemble the trusses with the center purlin plate oriented all the same way. Using a crane or sharpie as shown, set the trusses on the kneewall.
Note: The end truss splice plates are flat on the outside of the structure.
While still holding the truss with the sharpie, bolt the truss to the kneewall using the 5/8" redi-rod bolts. Before releasing the truss, be sure to securely tie it off in both directions with guy ropes.
Now set the 2nd truss and install purlins
(see next step)
Shown are the ends of the purlins.
Note: The purlin with the flat plate (located on the right in this photo) is the center purlin while the purlins with the "U" shaped ends are the side purlins.
Center purlins properly installed.
Side purlins properly installed.
After the trusses are set, drill a 3/8" hole through the top 2 holes in the truss plate and install 3/8" x 2+" bolts provided.
Continue on until all the framework is installed.
Now it is time to install the cover. Rule #1 - NO WIND!!
Check the ground and remove any sharp objects. For stony or muddy ground spread some straw or hay to protect the cover and then roll it out, down one side of the building.
Find the 2 side sleeves and install the sleeve pipe.
Note: Use the top from a plastic drink bottle over the end of the sleeve pipe as a guide.
Attach the sleeve pipes together with the provided couplers and secure them with self drilling / tapping screws.
Once both sleeve pipes have been installed it is time to attach the ropes to them. Do this by cutting a small slit through the cover and then inserting the rope and tying off as shown. Use 1 rope for every 20' of building length.
Using a skid steer, truck or tractor, proceed to pull on the cover VERY SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY watching to make sure that nothing catches or snags.
Generally use a machine in the middle and pull by hand the ends.
As the cover starts up over make sure that is does not catch on the 2" x 12" plate.
Once the cover is on the framework, center it as much as possible side to side and end to end.
The first step in tying off the cover is installing the curved sleeve pipes in each end.
Join the curved sleeve pipes with self tapping screws.
Once the curved sleeve pipes are installed it is time to start installing the end ratchet straps. Thread the
1 1/4" nylon strap around the curve sleeve pipe and the outside (top) cord of the truss.
Insert tale end of strap in ratchet until snug.
Uniformly tension the ratchet straps until taught.
Now it is time to install the ratchets. Be sure to tighten very securely and cut off any excess bolt that may protrude to the inside of the building.
Se sure that the stud of the bolt is flush with the nut on the inside of the ratchet. No more, no less.
Using a sharp knife slit the cover just above the side sleeve pipe and well below the stiching and then insert the 2" strap through the slits.
Take both ends of the 2" straps through the center hub of the ratchets at least 6" and then tighten the ratchet until snug. Continue this process until all ratchets are snug, then go back over and re-tention each ratchet with a 12" wrench until tight. Once all ratchets are tight, install the 4 end ratchets that will tighten the cable in the end flap. Tighten until very snur, but not overly tight.
Note: The position of the end ratchet that it pulls the cable straight out of the end flap.
Install the diagonal cables as shown from the bottom of the end truss through the 2nd truss and tie off on the 3rd truss.
Diagonal cables tied off at the top of the 3rd truss.
Supplied with each Super Structure are snow braces, which should be installed at this point. Snow braces are designed to add extra strength and stabilization during heavy snows. Hook the snow brace onto the webbing on the end truss.
Close up view of end truss.
The snow brace then swings up around and bolts to the bottom cord of the second truss.
